Global warming has been good to Champagne makers, so far

By Sybille de La Hamaide
REIMS, France, Nov 10 (Reuters) - Climate change is a touchy
subject in Champagne.
As France prepares to host world leaders for talks on how to
slow global warming next month, producers of the northeastern
French region's famous sparkling wine have seen only benefits
from rising temperatures so far.
The 1.2 degrees centigrade increase in temperatures in the
region over the past 30 years has reduced frost damage. It has
also added one degree in the level of alcohol and reduced
acidity, making it easier to comply with strict production
rules, according to champagne makers group CIVC.
"The Champagne region and Germany are among the northerly
vineyards which have managed to develop thanks to warmer
weather," Jean-Marc Touzard, coordinator of a program on wine
and climate change at French research institute INRA.
"Even if I feel very concerned by climate change, I have to
say that for the moment it has had only positive effects for
Champagne," Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger, president of the group
that bears his family's name, told Reuters at the company's
Reims headquarters.
Warming has brought other changes as well. Harvesting in
Champagne has been brought forward by two weeks on average over
the past 30 years, sometimes taking place as early as August
rather than in September or October in order to keep a lid on
sugar levels that can soar in a warm summer.
But while drought has slashed output in other areas of
agriculture, the chalky Champagne soil has water retention
properties that have so far been able to temper the impact.
And to fight dry weather, winemakers can also use techniques
such as removing grass competing for water in vineyards or keep
more leaves to protect grapes from the sun.
"For the moment, we don't have any major worry for the
coming 20-30 years but we have to think ahead. We have a
responsibility for the future," said Christian Renard, Vineyard
Director for Veuve Clicquot, part of French luxury group LVMH.
LVMH.PA
CIVC Director General Vincent Perrin said producers had ways
to deal with up to three degrees of global warming.
Scientists say warming must be kept below 2°Celsius (3.6
Fahrenheit) by the end of the century to stave off floods,
droughts and rising sea levels, but reductions of greenhouse gas
emissions pledged by states so far would only limit the rise to
about 2.7 degrees.
Perrin said producers were already preparing for higher
temperatures on experimental vineyards in Chouilly near Epernay.
One of the solutions envisaged is enlarging space between
vine rows to allow more room for roots to find water.
However, producers should beware of an increase in extreme
weather such as storms and dry spells, and a potential increase
in disease along with higher temperatures, Touzard said.
"They shouldn't rest on their laurels, stay alert and look
out for new competitors," he said, citing a rise in sparkling
wine makers around the world, notably Britain.